This is
an in-depth review of the Yashica FX-D Quartz. I based this review on various
resources on the Internet and my personal experience of using this camera for
the last two months.
As it is
usually the case, this camera is a car-boot sale find. The lady who sold it to
me told me that I can have it for a pound since it was not working. Actually
all it needed were new batteries.
With the
acquisition of Contax by the Kyocera Group back in the early 70's, Yashica and
Contax started the production of very similar products for two very different
client groups. Yashica focused in the production of cameras for the amateurs /
enthusiasts while Contax focused in the production of hi-end cameras for the
Pros. In line with this policy, both companies produced cameras that bear a big
amount of similarities to the point of being named sister cameras, if not twin
sisters. Think of the Contax RTS and the Yashica FR (reviewed on this blog).
Both Contaxes and Yashicas bear the same mount which means that the world famous Carl Zeiss
lenses can be used on all Yashica SLRs and the compatibility between
accessories and even spare parts is striking. The Yashica FX-D has therefore a
big sister, it is the Contax 139 Quartz, but as we will see in a while those
cameras are more than sisters - to me they are twins.
On the July
1981 issue of Modern Photography we find a four pages review of the Yashica
FX-D that gives us a few details regarding the difference between the two
cameras. The Contax maintains a sophisticated Off-The-Film-Plane TTL flash
while it is dropped on the FX-D. Also, the Contax has aperture readouts on the
viewfinder while Yashica doesn't. Contax has a small pneumatic shock absorber
that makes the return of the mirror smoother than the Yashica. Contax has a top
plate made of metal while Yashica's is plastic. But to tell you the truth, this
is an excellent plastic material impregnated with glass fibres. It actually
fooled me into believing that it is metal, it even feels cold in my hands just
like metals do. Finally, Contax has the shutter speeds on the left while
Yashica keeps the old orthodox placement of the shutter speeds on the right.
These are
the obvious differences between the two cameras. The September 1982 issue of
Popular Photography performed a complete strip down of the camera which
revealed a few more differences. Contax uses a pentaprism while Yashica has a
pentamirror which results in the viewfinder being a bit brighter in Contax.
Also Contax's film advance level has a ball bearing that makes it smoother to operate.
And this is where the differences end. Both cameras share the same shutter
unit, same mirror box and mirror system (sans shock absorbers) and film advance
system (sans ball bearing). To tell you the truth, the film advance system on
the FX-D is excellent, it has a very small stroke cycle, smaller than the
Olympus or the Pentax MX and almost as small as the Minolta XD-7. To my eyes,
these make the two cameras being twin cameras. Not identical twins but twins
nevertheless.
Pulling a
few more comments from the lab report performed by Popular Photography, the
"camera's workmanship appears flawless" and "in each
case the plastic and design parts are above criticism". Finally "while
having certain functional differences from the 139, the FX-D is by no means made
to lower standards. Its flexible board bears a very strong resemblance to the
more expensive model and the various switches and controls are first rate".
Comparing
this camera to the older sister, the FR, the FX-D maintains a feature that I
liked (the electromagnetic button for tripping the shutter) but loses the
aperture readings in the viewfinder. Together with the electromagnetic button
comes what I consider to be an ergonomic flaw, that is, having a separate
button to activate the light meter. Having said that, placing the button in
front of the camera feels a bit better than having it on the back. Unlike the
FR, the FX-D is a small camera (same dimensions as the Olympus OM-1n) and adds
aperture priority exposure
mode which I find it to be very helpful. To top that
up, there is the very useful exposure lock button that locks the exposure for
as long as it is switched on. On the negative side, remember to switch it off
after you take the picture otherwise you risk screwing all your film. Also,
storing away the camera with the exposure lock on will drain your batteries, so
always keep an eye on it. The
plague of these cameras is called "leatherette". It peels off and falls
even without ever using the camera. All these cameras need to have them
replaced. Despite the horrible state of the leatherette, my sample has
seen very little use (if any at all). When I opened the film door, the
light seals on the right side of the door looked like brand new and
untouched. Of course the moment I touched them with my finger they
turned into sticky goo but what I am trying to say is that this camera
did not have a film canister in it for decades. I stripped off the old
light seals and replaced it with self-adhesive black felt. I also
removed all the old leatherette and cleaned the camera with Ronsonol to
dissolve all the grease and dirt. Gave it a good rub with a cotton pad
with a few drops of WD-40 and left it overnight. Next morning I cleaned
it with a dry cloth. Mirror and focusing screen were cleaned with a
cotton bud with a few drops of Ronsonol and gently wiped.
![]() |
| Size comparison between Yashica and Olympus OM-1n |
| Source: Popular Photography Sept. 1982 |
Using
this camera has been a real pleasure. It is what I consider to be the ideal
size and has performed flawlessly. Exposure is as accurate as a centre-weighted
system can be and the Yashica ML 50 f/2 which came as a standard lens is first
rate. I have to admit that the previous two DSB versions that I used left me
rather cold but this little lens is excellent. The only things that I found
distracting were the amount of noise and vibrations produced during picture
taking. According to Popular Photography (see picture) the levels of both
vibration and noise are below average for a camera of this price bracket but I
suppose, having being used to super-silent cameras such as the Olympus OM-1n or
the Minolta XD-7, the noise and especially the vibration levels are noticeable.
I shot
two test films with the camera and I really like it a lot. Fit and finish of
this camera is excellent and balances nicely on my hands. Exposure was accurate
all the time although I did not test it in tricky light situations (this is
where exposure lock comes handy). The Yashica ML 50 f/2 is, as I said, an
excellent piece of glass. I just wish there was aperture reading in the
viewfinder - how much I would love that!
Conclusion
Every
now
and then, there will be a camera on my blog that really manage to stand
out
from the rest. The high pro cameras like the Pentax MX, the Olympus
OM-1n, the
Minolta XD-7 or the Nikon F4s (review coming soon) are some of them. But
there
are other cameras that are really the dark horses of this blog, coming
out of
nowhere and impress me with their performance. The Yashica FX-D is one
of them
- I never thought when I was handing over that one pound that I would
love it
as much as I do. The reason for that is all the above mentioned. But the
Yashica FX-D has one more virtue that hasn't been mentioned yet. It is
the
excellent reputation for reliability that I consider the single most
important
feature of this camera. True, Google around and you will find out that
except
general wear and tear there is no known history of any major faults
associated for this
camera. It might not reach the collectible status of the Contax RTS but
neither do you have to worry about fried up electronics. And yes, it
might not be of the same building quality and functionality like the
Pentax LX but you don't have to worry about sticky mirrors either.
Statements like these might read as exaggerations but the truth is that
considering the relatively low price it fetches on the used market,
it is one of the best cameras your money can buy.
Mount on them a Carl Zeiss glass and you have the sharpest shooter
around.
Highly Recommended!
Lasting Impressions
One of the cameras that I
really regret having sold. Although the extra cash is always welcome in
order to keep this blog running, I seriously regretted having sold this
one. It is an excellent camera and I will keep my eyes open in case I
come across another one.


So true, man! My FX-D has never failed me since I've got it. Amazing quality and performance, and also is compatible with Tamron adaptall 2 system, which are one of the best lenses for Yashica. Did you tried them?
ReplyDeleteI haven't had the chance to try them, no. But i read good things about them, especially the 28/2.5 which can be found very cheap.
DeleteI have one on the way, bought as spares because of it having no leatherette. Only cost £8.50 but not as good as your bargain. I have plenty of Adaptall 2 lenses and at least one C/Y adapter.
ReplyDeleteYou can get pre-cut leather kits for the FX-D. I often see pimped ones with red or yellow leather on eBay.
I have just acquired one with 50mm 1.4 feom an old photo studio. The lens is great but the camera isn't working, the film advance lever is jammed halfway through. Iwonder if it's just the case of not getting power. I changed the batteries but the problem remains. What do you suggest should be done?
ReplyDeleteThe advance level being stuck 'half way through' is not a good sign. Try lifting the mirror up with your finger to see if it completes any circle. Assuming the batteries are good and inserted correctly, I would remove the base plate and mess about with it to see if anything triggers the shutter. I am not sure what else to suggest.
DeleteThe mirror is already up all the time. When the batteries are dead, what is the state of the film advance lever?
DeleteI sold the camera a long time ago , I cannot check for you. I would imagine it should rest at the start of the stroking circle.
DeleteIt is at the start of the circle, it's just that it doesnt go beyond half way and the mirror is up.
DeleteAre the LEDs on in the finder? If they are off when loaded with a new battery, then either batteries are bad or there has been battery corrosion in the battery compartment or (worst) board failure. If the LEDs are on then your camera is jammed half way through the shutter triggering.
DeleteStupid question, but is this camera motorized?
ReplyDeleteIt depends what 'motorized' means. It does not have a motor to advance the film but it can accept a winder.
Deletehi there, I am new with cameras so pardon my lack of knowledge, I too got this at a boot sale but not for a pound! mine is working well but I just can't figure out what the led in view finder means exactly... I have been looking for online information but it skims over my biggest question... what the red dots mean. for instance I will make the settings to what I feel is good for the light etc. and there will be a red blinking dot and sometimes a still red dot, or two dots and one blinking. I have another yeshica and it will have a green light occur when I get it correct. so I was wondering if you could just translate what these red dots mean! I would be forever grateful.
ReplyDeletethank you!
Suzie
Great review! I couldn't agree with you more as to a truly surprising and well built performer!
ReplyDeleteI really enjoy shooting with my FX-D
The leather on mine was ATROCIOUS and now has a nice faux dark leather cover-looks great!The Yashica ML and DSB lenses produce terrific b&w and color images-the Zeiss lenses are not bad either (;>)
Finally the price for these cameras is very affordable-in a word Terrific!
All The Best
Wayne S.