Minolta X-700

If there is an award for the most underrated camera, the Minolta X-700 is definitely within the top three. I am not joking, in a forum, people were asked to name the camera they think it is the most underrated and i suggested the Fujicas but one constant contestant was the Minolta x-700. Eventually a participant in that conversation offered his old X-700 to anyone who wanted it and this is how this camera landed on my hands (Thanks Richard). There are plenty of reviews on the Internet about the X-700 therefore I will not go into the historical bit of the story, just check out MIR's fantastic page for more information. I will just focus on how this camera feels after I've shot a couple of films with it.

When i picked up the camera, the first overall impressions were..errr.. OK-ish.... Extensive use of plastic (remember, we are in the 80's), both top and bottom are plastic and the camera feels light without feeling cheap thought. A typical problem with the X-700 is the broken frame counter, if yours still works alright, you can bet that it will soon break. Nothing to worry about though, the plastic bit that acts as a break, eventually gets worn out and the dial spins around. The solution is something very easy. Super glue a tiny screw on top of the broken plastic and it is ready to go. I did it with mine, it is better than new. The Minolta X-700 has a bad reputation because of the dreaded dead capacitors fault; some serial numbers are prone to have this capacitors fail that turns the camera into a paper weight. Please don't throw away this beautiful camera, it only needs two 220uF/4V capacitors which are readily available in the market and it is ready to shoot again. The main suspect is the capacitor located right under the base plate, it is easy to access and you can actually change it by yourself. If after changing the capacitor, the camera refuses to work, then a second capacitor needs to be changed. This one is located under the film rewind crank and it is a bit more difficult to change but not impossible. Anyway, for a skilled technician this is a 30 mins job, a quick fix and you have your camera as good as new. My understanding is that the problems lays with the capacitors, it is not the camera's fault. Once changed you should not experience this problem again. Have a look on this page for more info.

[Edit 2017]
I have received a couple of questions regarding the broke frame counter fix. My bad for not taking any pictures and uploading them. Now, before you start taking the camera apart, you need to make sure that the reset pin that resets the counter when you open the camera back is not stuck because of deteriorated light seal from the door. Once you make sure that it is clean and that you can easily push it in and returns easily out with no resistance, then venture (at your own risk) to repair the frame counter.

This page has a very detailed guide as to how to take the top off. There i found a picture of the frame counter. Have a look here:

click for bigger

Now, the frame counter disk sits on a spring which is tensioned. Notice the yellow circle, it is not very visible but there is a small plastic bit protruding from the counter disk and stops on the red plastic which acts as a break and does not allow the disk to rotate more. Obviously, if the plastic bit from the frame disk is broken, the disk spins around until all tension from the spring is gone.

So what you need to do is rotate the frame disk a couple of times in order to tension the spring again (trial and error at this stage) and glue a tiny screw or anything else in the place where the old pin used to be (you should be able to see what remained of it). Make sure that it looks a bit like what you see in this picture. The trick is to get the right tension on the spring - too loose and the counter will not rotate, same if it is too tensioned. Sometimes you have to un-glue and re-glue it in order to get the frame numbers aligning accurately with the frame arrow - not difficult at all.

Good luck!

One thing that people should be aware of when using this camera, is a potential incompatibility between the camera in programme mode and older MC lenses. Minolta has warned that under some circumstances there might be inconsistent exposures with older MC lenses although it is not always the case. I read some reviews saying that people have difficulties nailing the right exposure with the X-700 and i am wondering what lens are they using it with. In Full manual and aperture priority the exposure system should work fine with both MC and MD lenses.

With all the negatives out of our way, lets focus on what this camera does do right. Simple thing to answer - everything. Remember, this was the top-of-the-line Minolta when it was produced so don't be fooled by the outer plastic shell, within it lays a high quality Minolta machine that takes one good picture after the other. There is a good reason why Minolta kept this camera in production for almost 20 years (1981-1999) and there is also a good reason why it won the award for the "Best camera" in 1982. The shutter and mirror noise are a bit on the loud side without making it too distracting though. The X-700 was criticised for not showing both the selected and suggested shutter speed on the viewfinder on full manual mode but to be honest, i couldn't care less about it. Really. The shutter speeds are illuminated LEDS in the viewfinder which are visible even in pitch dark. Another thing that i find very useful is the fact that you do not have to press the shutter button half way to get a meter reading, just a touch is enough. Good, because i have taken many pictures with my BC1 while trying to set the exposure (or with the Zenit 12XP... even worst). The camera comes with exposure lock and depth of field preview buttons, both very useful. When using the Programme mode, keep in mind that this is more of a High Speed Programme rather than anything else, it gives emphasis to higher speeds (which means more open apertures) so make sure that you focus well and don't rely on depth of field. I suppose the logic behind it was that since they are not going to offer a Shutter priority mode which is very useful in sports etc. maybe the programme could be more high speed oriented and if you want maximum depth of field then use the Aperture priority. That's my take on it.

The November issue of Popular Photography back in 1982 performed a strip down lab test to the Minolta X-700 and came up with some interesting results. First of all, all major wiring is gold plated to minimise corrosion. The shutter magnets are shielded against moisture and dust and the shutter mechanism is a redesigned XG-M shutter that incorporates parts from the Minolta CL. In this camera have been used materials from the previous XG and XD series and in some cases even from the XE.

The Minolta X-700 proved to be a big commercial success and paved the way for the future Minolta's. I think that the future pro 9000 bears a lot of similarities with the X-700. And i do like the 80's sharp-corners-style on cameras. I purchased a Sigma 28 f/2.8 and now i am using the X-700 in A mode as a high quality point and shoot. I also decided to beef up the camera a bit so i also got the Minolta G-winder which improves the mass distribution when attached. Although heavier i somehow find it easier to hold the camera now. The noise of that little beast is unbelievable, i cannot imagine how would the MD-1 motor drive might sound like. Definitely not the right equipment to shot a night in the opera. I also got some new clothes from Cameraleather just to make it look nicer...

And now that it looks nice, how does it perform? It performs flawlessly. I have not experienced any of the metering inconsistencies I've read about. The camera takes one good picture after the other and that is what really counts. As I've already said, I use the camera as a point and shoot in A mode and having in mind the limitations of all centre-weighted systems of the 80's, this camera really delivers the goods time after time. I somehow see this camera as a feature-stripped-down version of Canon's A1. The weight is slightly less but the layout is less confusing for me. Everything seems to be where I would expect them to be. Another big plus for the Minolta is the fact that the shutter button seems to be in the right place for my hands. While holding the camera, the shutter button is just under the tip of my forefinger, i don't have to look for it as it happens with other cameras (Fujica, Praktica, Canon AE-1, Dynax 9xi, etc.).

Conclusion

I will conclude with something Michael said on his brilliant review of the X-700 (found here): "The camera's external body is largely constructed of plastic and doesn't look like the dependable and versatile tool that it really is." I think that is what sums up the Minolta X-700 perfectly. The camera is far more dependable and effective than it looks, the pictures i got back from the lab could had be taken by my Dynax 9xi or my EOS 5 and you couldn't tell the difference. This was the top of the line Minolta camera so don't be fooled by the looks of it. Definitely a camera that needs to be restored on the Classic Cameras Hall of Fame. Grab one while they are still underrated!

Lasting impressions

I have sold this camera since. A fantastic camera, very functional and reliable, I just couldn't justify having it since I bought the XD-7. Considering what this camera can offer, the prices on the Internet with a standard 50 f/1.7 makes this camera an absolute bargain. Stop lusting after an XD-7 if you cannot afford it and get one of these. You will not regret it!!